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Jawbone Journal

  • Spring Migration

    by Kaola Swanson, Program Director

     

    In less than two weeks, I will load up my little truck with myself, my canine companion, and some choice possessions to drive cross country. It will be the second time in four months. It’s been a good winter and a wonderful visit home, but I know it is time to migrate. I have done all the work I can from a computer in North Carolina. I could not be more excited to be headed back towards Oregon and Opal Creek. I cannot wait to see the landscape expand & grow the farther west I get. Mostly, I cannot wait to wake up in my cabin, under the canopy of 200 foot trees, and walk to the Lodge for breakfast.stony view

     

    I know Rebekah, our wonderful, talented, and one-of-a-kind Food Service Director will be there smiling over a steaming cup of coffee. Who will I sit with at the staff table? Brian Campbell will be there as Facilities Director this year, so I can count on seeing him bright-eyed and bushy tailed in the morning. The rest of our staff, instructors and cooks, will be new but I know if they’re interested in working here, they must be extremely intelligent, humorous, and attractive people. I am sure we will be great friends and co-workers.

     

    Yes, I am also excited to have our first school group in Jawbone, chattering away as they explore under rocks and in the streams. Our Workshops this year are already filling up, and we have fine tuned the itineraries to ensure maximum weekend fun is obtained. And Summer Expeditions! They really are my favorite- a week, in the wilderness, climbing mountains, and swimming in lakes- you really get to know the kids and it’s a great time. Speaking of all these programs, have you seen the 2010 Catalog yet? bear grassDid you notice the new look and feel of it? Smaller, lighter, and in full color, it should already be in your mail boxes. If you didn’t get it, you can download the PDF here or call 503-892-2782 to request one. Writing the program descriptions always makes me eager for the season to start. And it will, very soon- I better get to packing if I’m going to make it there on time….

     

    Come see us in the woods this year- it’s going to be a great one!

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  • A New Bridge Over Battle Ax

    by Brian Campbell, Facilities Director

    The past week was definitely an exciting one for Adam Mims, Ben Yates and myself as we set out to replace the old and worn-out bridge rails on the Battle Ax Bridge. The rails have been on the bridge for over a decade and were decidedly showing their age while also reflecting the heavy use that Ben, Battle Axthey had endured. The rough cut lumber and the raw branches that made up the structure of the old bridge rails were in keeping with the rustic theme that effortlessly presents itself in Jawbone Flats. The integrity of the rails however, as a safe support for the elbows and bellies of visitors to Opal Creek, showed early signs of compromise. So, while the new rails are not of that same rustic bearing they are vastly more strong and stable. They should easily give our visitors at least another decade of safe viewing of the creek as it rushes its final stretch of Battle Ax and upon meeting Opal Creek, becomes the Little North Fork of the Santiam River.

                Work on the bridge took about two days longer than expected but went smoothly and without incident. The old rails yielded to our pry-bars, hammers and wrenches; within a few hours we had stripped the upstream portion of the bridge rails down to the decking. We spent the rest of that day prepping the site for the installation of the new rails, ambitious to implement our plan and see how the new rails would look and function. The next day we watched as the rails quickly rose up in front of us and we were quite pleased with how they, “fit in,” with the style of the bridge. We were all happy with the outcome and excited to do the same to the other side, however, I did have a bit of regret over the hand-held radio I lost over the edge near the end of that work day. Turns out that those things don’t work very well after they’ve been submerged in the water….go figure.

                The next day we returned to finish our job but, we soon discovered that the second side was going to need much more work than the first. The decking on this side would need to be replaced entirely so that we could be certain of a strong base to attach the new rails to. We spent nearly the whole of that day remedying this issue and retired, once again certain that we would finish our job the following day. In the morning we returned to the site and everythingbattle ax bridge went smoothly, although there were some tense moments as we leaned far out over the unbounded edge to secure the bolts through the decking and risked a 25 foot drop into an icy cold pool. Luckily no one had to take that frigid plunge and we finished installing the rails without any trouble.

                And so finally, after one last short day of fine tuning the aesthetics of our project and cleaning up our mess we were once again able to lean on the rails of the Battle Ax Bridge and watch the crystal clear water froth at the base of the falls before gathering its composure again to run its last short stretch as the Battle Ax Creek. It is a view that many of you have seen before- a view that I hope will endure unchanged, for countless generations to enjoy.

    For current views of the new bridge, and of Jawbone, please go to our webcam .

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  • A long road from NY to Opal Creek

    By Brian Campbell, Facilities Director

    It’s a long road that takes you from Upstate New York to Opal Creek. I understand this clearly now after my exhausting marathon drive, through the snow, to take up the challenging yet incredibly satisfying work of Facilities Director for the Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center. After two seasons of working in the Lodge kitchen I was offered the opportunity to fill this position around the first week of December and was more than happy to accept. But, I had to suppress my excitement until the end of the month when I would finish my degree requirements at SUNY Geneseo and be free of the obligations that originally called me away from Opal Creek.

    The moment I finished my last final exam, my thoughts immediately turned to making the necessary preparations for a winter of self reliance in the remoteness of Jawbone Flats. Most of the friends of Opal Creek may already be aware of the difficulties faced by the winter crews during the last couple of years: above average snowfall, loss of power, loss of water, bitter cold and the persistent isolation from the world beyond the gate. These were the conditions I had in mind as I set out to gather the food and supplies necessary to support myself until the snow would, hopefully, begin to melt in April.

    Brian & BearWhen I finally arrived in Opal creek on December 27th, weighed down with three months worth of provisions, my excitement could not be dampened even by the heavy wet snow which hung on the trees and mixed with the mud on my doorstep. However, there was work to be done. The icy cold temperatures that hung over the Northwest during the early part of December had burst many of the pipes in camp and disabled the Pelton Wheel (our primary source of electricity). Adam Mims, Ben Yates and myself spent many of those first days lying on our backs in the cold mud replacing water lines. And, by the time we finished our repairs the weather had, gratefully, turned for the better, becoming milder with the precipitation coming exclusively as rain which quickly filled the creeks and brought them up to levels that I had never seen before.

    The mellow babbling of the creek in the summer had been replaced by a thrashing and crashing tumult that filled every corner of the flats with its presence. Since those days things have been rather quiet. The creeks have settled themselves, the rain has come infrequently and the temperatures remain mild. But, those hardy souls that have come before me and preserved Jawbone Flats through multiple winters assure me that the winter will come and, often, it will come quickly and unexpectedly. So for now, I’ll happily continue the work of maintaining this amazing place, all the while, with an awareness that I am, ultimately, a subject of nature’s whimsy.

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  • A Wild Profusion of Colors & Shapes; by John Villella


    As the plants of summer are fading away to the roots in the soil, and the leaves of the maples are changing to their beautiful fall colors another group of organisms are emerging out of the soil, the fleshy fungus of Opal Creek.

    During most of the year hikers may not even notice mushrooms in Opal Creek, but they are there living quietly in the soil helping the trees and plants to gather nutrients and survive in the thin soils of the steep canyons. When the rains of fall come and the nights grow colder, the mushrooms are triggered into fruiting and a wild profusion of colors and shapes emerge to wow visitors to this primordial old growth forest.

    Violet Cortinariusyellow stemmed Mycena 

    Violet Cortinaruis                              Yellow Stemmed Mycena     

    As the fall mushroom workshops were under way this October, a plethora of fungal species were on display for appreciative workshop participants. Participants arrived at the gate with their baskets and field guides in hand. Both of these family friendly workshops encountered everything from choice edible species such as Chantrelles and Lobster mushrooms to species that are used as natural wool and silk dyes such as the Dyers Polypore. Of course there are also the species that are just cool to look at such as the Violet Cortinarius and the yellow stemmed Mycena tooth to just name a couple. Hikers that braved the wet weather were also treated to an unexpected surprise; a terrestrial pacific giant salamander was spotted on the trail taking advantage of the wet weather to move freely across the forest floor.

    Special thanks go out to the kitchen staff that not only provided warm drinks to the wet participants arriving at Jawbone after their mushroom forays but also cooked up some of the edibles that were gathered so that everyone could try their finds. Maybe this is why the Mushroom Workshops are a perennial favorite! But never fear, if you did not get a chance to cometo this workshop this fall the mushrooms are still out. If you decide to take anautumn hike in Opal Creek you will undoubtedly encounter many fungal species that will impress and amaze, and you may even end up filling your belly too.

    Identifying the many fungi found on the hike into Jawbone.

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  • The Hidden Underwater World...at Night!

    By Bobby Cressman, Science Instructor

     

    Under the twilight I prepared for my journey into a seldom seen world here in the Opal Creek wilderness. I had planned to dive the Battle Axe creek pool in Jawbone Flats to obtain some measurements for official purposes. Little did I know I would be in for an experience that I would not soon forget.

    The water was as clear as ever and the temperature was just right (in the dry suit that is!!). I descended to the bottom of the pool and my gauge read 17 ft. I was about to start making my measurements then I noticed what appeared to be small pinecones on the bottom. I went in for a closer look and to my surprise there were dozens upon dozens of caddis fly larvae. I have seen them on the surface, but now that I was on their turf, I was amazed at the multitudes of these magnificent creatures. Some of the houses that these insects built were incredibly ornate. From pieces of bark, fragments of rock that seemingly glowed with copper, pine needles and whatever they can find. They were simply amazing. These insects can only live in water that is clean and free of pollutants. This is just another sign that this watershed is truly one of the most pristine in the western cascades.

     

    In addition to these crafty critters, I came across some of the largest giant coastal salamanders I have ever seen. Rainbow trout were also very abundant and healthy. They ranged in size from 2 to 8 inches. Needless to say I spent my time just watching and being a guest in this pristine environment. My time limit of 15 minutes had quickly come to an end. Reluctantly I surfaced and shared my marvel with my on-looking co-workers. Opal pool is next!!

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  • Bring a Friend to Opal Creek by Tom Atiyeh, Executive Director

    One of the best ways of spreading the word about Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center is for you to personally bring a friend to our unique woods. Last week we provided that opportunity for an Opal Creek student to bring her mom, a Beaverton teacher to bring another teacher, an activist from the battles of the 80’s and 90’s to engage the current staff and a Buchman teacher to bring her husband without having to be mother hen to 30 students. We loaded up a van in Tualatin and carpooled our way to the trailhead where Program Coordinator Kaola Swanson and Science Instructor Katie Chipko lead an interpretive hike to Jawbone Flats.

     

    Bring a Friend to Opal Creek

     

     

    On the walk in the group learned what makes up an ancient forest with many noted examples. When we came to the multiple layers aspect our former student knew the science and it was very rewarding to our staff that the previous lesson had impact on a young person’s life. Kaola and Katie demonstrated how to tell the difference between our major species of trees and how they interact during their long life cycle. We saw tress 800 to 1000 years old that had survived multiple fires and continue to stand the test of time. These trees would have been a “one log load” back in the 1980s but they were spared by landmark legislation in 1996 thanks to Senator Hatfield’s intervention.

     

    The 3.1 mile educational stroll ended at Jawbone Flats with a snack, and then it was time to hit the butt slide for an afternoon of fun in the cool stream as the temperature soared into the 90s.

     

    That evening after a scrumptious dinner with donated Sineann Pinot Noir in the Lodge the group adjourned to the Commissary where a slide presentation on ancient forest ecology rounded out the day. We thought all the action was over until the International Space Station flew its heavenly course directly between Stony Ridge and Mt. Whetstone; its own solar arrays casting glimmering light to us back on the section of earth we call Opal Creek. 

     

    The next morning everyone was commenting how one day isn’t enough. We will revive this experience next year and make it two days and nights at Jawbone Flats. Tony George did stay one additional evening and brought out our donated telescope for a quick and spontaneous astronomy lesson for our summer campers, after they adjourned to their bunks he conducted another evening session with our staff.

     

    It’s not too late in the year to stage your own mid-week get-away to Opal Creek.

     

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  • Summer Arrives at Opal Creek - by Katie Chipko, Science Instructor

    Summertime in Jawbone has its perks…swimming daily in our emerald green pools, enjoying meals on the back porch of the lodge with friends, and watching the wildflowers come into bloom one by one.  However, the most exciting thing about summer for me involves leaving behind our remote home at Jawbone Flats for places even further off the beaten path.  Summer means its backpacking season! 

     

    Backpacking season at Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center started July 1st with our annual scouting trip.  Except this year, things got a bit more exciting with the expansion of our backpacking program into Bull of the Woods Wilderness.  Our 37,607 acre neighboring wilderness area contains about a dozen lakes and untouched forest ranging from low elevation old-growth Douglas fir to sparse subalpine forest.  Instructors Kaola Swanson, Jennie Fuller, and I ventured into the wilderness from Elk Lake and continued on a three day loop past Twin Lakes, Pansy Lake, Bull of the Woods Mountain, and back up Elk Lake Creek.  We were thrilled to be exploring new territory, however we were quickly greeted by relentless swarms of mosquitoes recently hatched out of the many lakes and ponds.  The scenery and solitude were spectacular but the mosquitoes kept us moving fast.  We found peace and fields of wildflowers on ridges and enjoyed a breath-taking 360 degree view of the surrounding Cascades at the old fire lookout on Bull of the Woods Mountain. 

     

     Protecting ourselves during the attack of the killer mosquitoes. 

    Exploring wilderness with just the things I carry on my back has been a passion of mine for many years.  Beginning last year, I gained new perspective on the importance of experiences in the wilderness when I started taking kids backpacking with Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center’s summer programs.  It was very eye-opening to watch my group of ten first-time backpackers overcome challenges and fears and start to develop a love and appreciation for wilderness.  Carrying packs almost as large as themselves to the tops of mountains and camping out in the middle of nowhere, far away from all the comforts they are used to gives kids an enormous sense of accomplishment and a strong sense of independence.  So, I look forward to this season of backpacking not only for my own love of wilderness, but more to listen to kids crack each other up, make it to the top of mountains, and be humbled by the beautiful landscape surrounding Opal Creek.

     Mt Hood and blooming Indian Paintbrush

     

     


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  • PSU Summer Courses

    Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center is lucky to host two summer courses from Portland State University. The first is a forest ecology class taught by Dr. Trygve Steen. Water in the Environment, a class for non science majors is taught by Patrick Edwards. Both professors bring an incredible amount of knowledge and enthusiasm about the unique environment of Opal Creek Wilderness with them into the classroom.

    Dr Steen has been involved with Opal Creek before it was a protected wilderness. He has hiked all the trails and he has an infectious love of this place. John Villella, his assistant teacher is a lichenologist and former Opal Creek Instructor. The course is demanding, with class running late into the evening, but no one complains. After an eight hour excursion to the Franklin Grove, students come back chattering about the 586 year old Douglas-fir they cored and the abundance of speckle belly lichen, an old growth indicator.

    Having college level students here invigorates the staff and helps us remember not to take the daily sights and sounds of the old growth forest for granted. It is also a welcome opportunity to refresh vocabularies and ask questions. Today, hiking with a family workshop, I could tell that instructor Katie Chipko was trying to hold back some of the new information she learned, worried that it might be too much for the kids. When a curious ten year old started asking about symbiosis, Katie grinned and let the discussion begin in earnest. It really doesn’t matter how old you are, this forest is the best classroom imaginable.

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  • Vose Elementary School - Our first program!

    Seasonal staff had arrived, and Jawbone was buzzing with the excitement of the start of the season. Staff were all getting ready for the arrival of Vose Elementary School from Beaverton, despite the late season snow still falling outside.

     

    The bus pulled up to the Opal Creek gate and 39 eager and energetic fifth graders tumbled out.  They were prepared for the weather, wearing ponchos of all colors over their winter coats, and not the least bit dismayed by the snow.  Instead all were smiling and ready to experience in person all of the things they had heard about in their classroom.  There is so much to examine and discuss on the three mile walk in, that even the rain, sleet and snow did not phase the kids.  All three field study groups were late getting in to Jawbone.  After a warm up in the lodge complete with some hot cocoa, the groups headed back outside to plunge their hands into the frigid waters of Opal Creek in search of macro invertebrates and salamanders.  We did not find too many aquatic creatures with the temperatures so cold, but the soil samples collected revealed a host of microscopic arthropods. 

    Student examines springtails in our lab.

    My favorite activity with this group was the night hike.  My group claimed nervousness about the dark, and they walked with hesitation in a small cluster up the Battle Ax road.  They spoke in hushed voices about nocturnal animals and adaptations and were thrilled by the sparks created by breaking sugar bonds in wintergreen lifesavers.  We were just finishing a listening game, again whispering about the sounds of the creek and our jackets rustling when Victor suggested a group howl.  Eyes glinted as everyone turned their faces upwards and howled in harmony.  We may have scared off the animals, but on our way back no one hesitated even though the darkness had deepened. 

     

    It may still look like winter in Jawbone, but Vose Elementary brought a spring breeze into camp.  Their enthusiasm and curiosity is contagious. Our season has officially begun and whatever the weather, we know that kids will continue to come and be inspired by the ancient forest

     

    -Kaola Swanson, Program Coordinator

     

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  • April 3rd - spring in Jawbone

    As I walked through the Hewitt Grove today, the snow was falling freshly and all signs seemed to continue to point toward winter.  According to the calendar, it was spring in North America, with the equinox two weeks behind us.  However this morning the giant Douglas Firs and Hemlocks were once again covered with a fresh dusting of snow, and my Sorrell clad feet made fresh tracks as they has so many wintry mornings in the past.  Today was different though, with the distinct aroma of spring earth rising from the ground and song birds twittering over head, the forest finally signaled that spring was on its way despite the late season snow. 

     Winter Staff enjoy a sunny day in March

     

    Spring has arrived for Opal Creek Ancient Forest enter as well.  Attention has turned to our programming season as the forest slowly thaws and snow banks melt outside our windows.  Adam Mims, Facilities Director and Jawbone resident for 6 years, has packed up and moved on to the next chapter of adventures.  Seasonal staff will arrive this weekend and the population of Jawbone Flats will double overnight.  We will welcome back returning staff and indoctrinate new staff into the ways of Opal Creek Ancient Forest Center during staff training next week.  Before we know it, the sounds of excited kids searching for newts and frogs will fill the air and the 2009 season will be off and running.  A tailed frog was seen migrating across the snow last week, looking for spring!

     

     

     

    April also brings the launch of our new website, and the Jawbone Journal blog.  Those of you familiar with our semi-annual newsletter are aware of the print version of the Jawbone Journal.  We are excited to bring these weekly updates about life at Opal Creek to the new website.  Please check back often for updates about upcoming programs, natural history sightings, and stories from Jawbone Flats.

    Hope to see you in the forest this spring

    -Katie

     

     

     

     

     

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